Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Cat - Help Living With A Cat And A Cat Allergy

Has your doctor diagnosed you with an allergy to cats? Do you own cats? Do you consider them your babies? Can you not live without them? Just because you have an allergy to cats, it doesn't mean you necessarily have to give them away. There are some things you can do to help you and your beloved feline live together despite your cat allergy.

First, most people who say they are allergic to cats are really not allergic to cats at all but instead to their saliva. Because cats groom themselves regularly, their fur is covered with this dried saliva, or dander as it is called.

Since cats also shed regularly, their fur, which is coated in dander, is left where ever they may go in your home. It may settle in the carpet, on couches and drapes. Every time you clean this fur and dander is stirred up in the air, making your allergy symptoms worse.

If you find discover you have a cat allergy, the best idea is to keep your cat outside. If this is not possible because the animal is declawed, there are a few things you can do to make your life less miserable because of allergies.

First, you might want to limit your cat's roaming to only one or two rooms of your house. After petting or playing with your feline, wash your hands thoroughly, especially before touching your face or nose. Also, never allow the cats to sleep in your bed with you.

Next, there are several ways you can help reduce the amount of cat dander that stays in your home. You might think about replacing cloth curtains or drapes with plastic or wooden blinds.

It will also help if you remove the carpet from your house and replace it with linoleum, hardwood or tile floors. These changes mean you can clean your home better and get rid of more cat dander. While these actions may be costly, they are worth the effort for those who really love their cats.

If you can't replace your carpets because you rent your home or apartment, there are still several ways to clean more cat dander out of the existing carpet. First, there are new vacuums with extra powerful suction made specifically for removing pet hair from carpet, rugs and upholstery. Certain air filters and air cleaners can also help to cut down on the amount of dander floating in your air.

Another suggestion is to try is bathing your cat, or having him bathed, on a weekly basis. Although your cat won't like this idea that much, the weekly bath may help to cut down on some of the dander on the fur. Another option is to have your cat shaved.

While this may sound strange, many veterinarians' offices offer this service for less than $50. Cats with less hair will understandably have less dander. An added bonus is that they will also shed less and have fewer hairballs.

Finally, you might consult with your doctor to see if he can suggest an allergy medication that might with your cat allergy. He may suggest allergy shots, a prescription strength allergy medication or even an over-the-counter allergy treatment. You and your doctor can work together to find the best solution for your particular cat allergy.

For those who love cats, finding out that they have a cat allergy may be the worst news they can receive. While it may seem the only option is to give away their beloved pet, there are some things they can try in order to get allergy relief, but still keep their cat.

For more information on allergies try visiting http://www.theallergyeffect.com - a website that specializes in providing allergy related tips, advice and resources to including information on cat allergy.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=J._Lloyd

Cat - Sand Fleas

Sand fleas are one of the most dangerous species of fleas commonly found in the North Pacific region. They are the parasitic crustaceans who attach themselves to the flesh and scale of the other water creatures, and then eat the creatures they are attached to. Various water creatures who are the common targets of these sand fleas are small fish, swordfish, sunfish, flying fish, starfish, and even whales.

The size of the sand fleas can vary in size from as small as a small grain of sand to three or four times larger. Their attack is localized, as one part of the host can be seen to be severely affected by these fleas, while other parts show no damage.

As a first step of their predation on the host's body, sand fleas first appear to feed off their outer layer of slime. Then the fleas slowly eat away the top layer of the host's skin. Their presence on the host's body is made evident by the presence of a non-glossy, whitened appearance on the areas where the skin has been eaten by these fleas. They enter the body of the host mainly through the entrances created by these parasites, and by eating the skin membrane near the eye area, anus, or dorsal fins. Once they enter the skin of the host, the host is assumed to be dead, so deadly dangerous are these sand fleas. They attack the host body and suck and eat everything from the skin to sweet glands to the blood. The chewed remains of the unfortunate sea-creatures afflicted with the sand-fleas may be found in craters underwater.

Friday, October 26, 2007

Cat - Sand Fleas

Sand fleas are one of the most dangerous species of fleas commonly found in the North Pacific region. They are the parasitic crustaceans who attach themselves to the flesh and scale of the other water creatures, and then eat the creatures they are attached to. Various water creatures who are the common targets of these sand fleas are small fish, swordfish, sunfish, flying fish, starfish, and even whales.

The size of the sand fleas can vary in size from as small as a small grain of sand to three or four times larger. Their attack is localized, as one part of the host can be seen to be severely affected by these fleas, while other parts show no damage.

As a first step of their predation on the host's body, sand fleas first appear to feed off their outer layer of slime. Then the fleas slowly eat away the top layer of the host's skin. Their presence on the host's body is made evident by the presence of a non-glossy, whitened appearance on the areas where the skin has been eaten by these fleas. They enter the body of the host mainly through the entrances created by these parasites, and by eating the skin membrane near the eye area, anus, or dorsal fins. Once they enter the skin of the host, the host is assumed to be dead, so deadly dangerous are these sand fleas. They attack the host body and suck and eat everything from the skin to sweet glands to the blood. The chewed remains of the unfortunate sea-creatures afflicted with the sand-fleas may be found in craters underwater.

Fleas provides detailed information about fleas defined, cat fleas, dog fleas, flea bites and more. Fleas is the sister site of Pitbulls Info.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Elizabeth_Morgan

Cat - Dangerous Plants And You Cat Or Dog

You can do many things to keep your cats or dogs from harm, but an inconspicuous danger may still remain in your house - your plants and food.

Curious pets might take a taste of any plant. An pet may feel the need to self-medicate (like cats eating grass), and so the plant in a pot might tempt them. Or they may just be curious. Despite being toxic, some plants taste good (for instance, the taste of a berry is no indication of its safety, as some berries can taste fine but be highly dangerous).

It is also no guarantee if a plant is edible by people. Many plants can be poisonous for pets, yet completely safe for humans. For instance, onions are very toxic to cats. Also, the quantities that pets need to eat to be affected is much less than we'd have to eat, because of their small size.

However, although many houseplants are perfectly safe, many aren't, and it is necessary to be aware of what ones to avoid.

Cats need to avoid completely: chinese evegreen, crotons, peace lillies, onion, lily spider, rubber plant, iris, evergreen, black-eyed susan, belladonna, daffodil (bulb and plant), tobacco (such as ashtray butts), rhododendron, asparagus fern, rhubarb, english ivy and other ivys, tulip plants and bulbs, lily of the valley, easter lily, aloe vera, holly, oriental lily, chrysanthemum, jasmine, java beans, potato, poppy, mushrooms, umbrella plants, honeysuckle, mistletoe, amaryllis bulbs, apple seeds, sweet pea, poinsettia, yews (all types) tiger lily, baby's breath, marigold, morning glory, philodendron, eggplant, and eucalyptus, which can include a wide selection of plants in your home and larder.

Dogs need to keep away from (among other things): croton, apricot, chinese evergreen, daffodil, easter lilly, jasmine, baby's breath, philodendron, potato, hydrangea, poinsettia, apple, mushrooms, corn plant, honeysuckle, mushrooms, mountain laurel, mother-in-laws tongue, walnuts and many nuts, apple, pear seeds, aloe, holly, umbrella plant, green potatoes (especially the skins), lily of the valley, virginia creeper, peace lily, jade, hyacinth, wisteria, iris, plum, peach, apricot, cherry, pits, schefflera, almond, black-eyed susan, ficus, english ivy, tomato plants (and green tomatoes), and yews. These would include a wide variety of plants in your house and larder.

Note that this list is not complete. If you are in doubt about any plants, do research at your library, or on the Internet, consult knowledgeable friends, or if all else fails, get rid of the item.

Even if you truly value a favorite plant, your dog or cat must come first. If any plant is creating a health problem, it's an easy choice what to do, and you can make the correct decision for your pet's wellbeing.

Cat - Dangerous Plants And You Cat Or Dog

You can do many things to keep your cats or dogs from harm, but an inconspicuous danger may still remain in your house - your plants and food.

Curious pets might take a taste of any plant. An pet may feel the need to self-medicate (like cats eating grass), and so the plant in a pot might tempt them. Or they may just be curious. Despite being toxic, some plants taste good (for instance, the taste of a berry is no indication of its safety, as some berries can taste fine but be highly dangerous).

It is also no guarantee if a plant is edible by people. Many plants can be poisonous for pets, yet completely safe for humans. For instance, onions are very toxic to cats. Also, the quantities that pets need to eat to be affected is much less than we'd have to eat, because of their small size.

However, although many houseplants are perfectly safe, many aren't, and it is necessary to be aware of what ones to avoid.

Cats need to avoid completely: chinese evegreen, crotons, peace lillies, onion, lily spider, rubber plant, iris, evergreen, black-eyed susan, belladonna, daffodil (bulb and plant), tobacco (such as ashtray butts), rhododendron, asparagus fern, rhubarb, english ivy and other ivys, tulip plants and bulbs, lily of the valley, easter lily, aloe vera, holly, oriental lily, chrysanthemum, jasmine, java beans, potato, poppy, mushrooms, umbrella plants, honeysuckle, mistletoe, amaryllis bulbs, apple seeds, sweet pea, poinsettia, yews (all types) tiger lily, baby's breath, marigold, morning glory, philodendron, eggplant, and eucalyptus, which can include a wide selection of plants in your home and larder.

Dogs need to keep away from (among other things): croton, apricot, chinese evergreen, daffodil, easter lilly, jasmine, baby's breath, philodendron, potato, hydrangea, poinsettia, apple, mushrooms, corn plant, honeysuckle, mushrooms, mountain laurel, mother-in-laws tongue, walnuts and many nuts, apple, pear seeds, aloe, holly, umbrella plant, green potatoes (especially the skins), lily of the valley, virginia creeper, peace lily, jade, hyacinth, wisteria, iris, plum, peach, apricot, cherry, pits, schefflera, almond, black-eyed susan, ficus, english ivy, tomato plants (and green tomatoes), and yews. These would include a wide variety of plants in your house and larder.

Note that this list is not complete. If you are in doubt about any plants, do research at your library, or on the Internet, consult knowledgeable friends, or if all else fails, get rid of the item.

Even if you truly value a favorite plant, your dog or cat must come first. If any plant is creating a health problem, it's an easy choice what to do, and you can make the correct decision for your pet's wellbeing.

Eric Hartwell oversees "The World's Best Homepage" intended to be a user-generated resource where YOUR opinion counts. Anybody can contribute and all are welcomed. Visit us to read, comment upon or share opinions on pets, cat and dog care and animal health and visit our associated site articles for free.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_Hartwell

Cat - Understanding Dog Fleas: How Fleas Breed & Affect Your Dog's Health

Fleas belong to the insect order Siphonaptera. They are common pests and may attack many mammals, including man. They can be a year round problem because they infest not only pets but also the home of the owner. Because of this, treatment of the pet alone may only temporarily solve a flea infestation.

Although many species of fleas feed primarily on one type of animal, the common cat and dog flea will readily take blood from a variety of animals, including man. Flea infestations of pets and their homes will most likely involve the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis and occasionally the dog flea, C. canis.

Fleas are small (2 to 4 mm in length), brownish to black insects which are characteristically flattened from side to side. Adults are wingless and capable of jumping relatively long distances. Adults feed exclusively on blood with their piercing-sucking mouthparts. When not actively feeding, adult fleas often hide in locations frequented by the host animal such as your dog bedding, sofas, or carpeted areas.

The common cat and dog fleas breed throughout the year. After feeding and mating, the female deposits her eggs, usually on the host. Several eggs are laid daily and up to several hundred over a lifetime. Eggs normally fall off the host into bedding material or similar areas and hatch within two weeks.

Flea eggs accumulate in areas where the host spends most of its time. In addition, adult fleas defecate small pellets of digested blood which also drop off into the environment. A flea comb will often gather this fecal matter at the base of the tines providing a good sign of flea infestation. The combination of white flea eggs and black dried blood specks may appear as a sprinkling of salt and pepper where an infested animal has slept.

Fleas undergo complete metamorphosis, that is, they pass through four developmental stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Immature fleas do not resemble adults at all.

Flea larvae are tiny, light colored, and, worm-like, without legs. They feed primarily on various debris and organic material including the droppings of the adults which contains digested blood. Flea larvae occur indoors and outdoors, wherever the eggs have fallen off the host. In houses, flea larvae live in carpeting, furniture, animal bedding and other protected areas with high humidity. Flea larvae also live outdoors in areas where animals spend time such as under porches in and around dog houses, etc.

Because flea larvae depend on the adult's fecal pellets of dried blood as a food source, they cannot live in lawns or other outdoor areas unless the pet visits those areas enough to provide this food.

Depending on the species of flea and environmental conditions the larvae will pupate in one week to several months. The pupa is contained within a loose silken cocoon which is often covered by bits of debris. Under average conditions, the life cycle of the flea normally requires between 30 and 75 days but may take much longer. Adult fleas inside the cocoon, called pre-emerged fleas, will stay in that condition for weeks to months if no external cues from a host is available.

However, when disturbed by the presence of a host such as vibrations or carbon dioxide from exhaled breath, the fleas emerge simultaneously and attack the host. This is why it is possible to return to a house or apartment that has been empty for months and find it full of fleas.

When the normal host is available, fleas may feed several times a day but they are capable of surviving extended periods of starvation. In household situations, the normal host is a cat or dog. However, if the normal host is removed, starved fleas will readily seek other sources of blood and more often than not, man is the alternate host. In severe infestations, fleas will attack humans even though the normal host is present.

Certain species of fleas have been known to transmit such diseases as bubonic plague and murine typhus. These have never been a major problem. The major problems with fleas is as a nuisance pest of pets. The irritation and itching from flea bites results in scratching and potential secondary infection. Fleas may also transmit the double-pored dog tapeworm to dogs and cats.

Finally, persistent attacks from fleas can cause severe allergic responses in some people and pets. Once sensitized, a single flea bite may produce symptoms including hair loss, usually around the base of the tail, dermatitis, and intense itching. In worse cases, puppies and young kittens can also died from serious fleas infestations.

With proper flea management knowledge, flea problems will not be a big issue and can be battle and win over easily.

Cat - Caring For A Cat Or Kitten

Caring for a cat or kitten begins with a knowledge of basic first aid. This will be very useful especially in emergency situations. If you have a nearby vet clinic that offers first aid training you are doing both yourself and your cat a service by enrolling.

Knowing what to do in an emergency situation will keep you calm so that you can help your cat in an efficient and effective manner. You may be able to limit your cats injuries or help save its life.

Below is a list of first-aid items to help care for your cat when those emergencies may arise.:

? Antiseptic lotion - for cleaning wounds

? Antiseptic wound powder - to treat wounds and promote healing

? Cotton balls - to clean wounds and bathe eyes

? Cotton swabs -to clean wounds and apply ointments

? Pair of scissors with blunt tips and curved blades - to cut dressings to size and for clipping fur around wounds

? Antihistamine -to ease insect bites and stings

? Blunt-tipped tweezers -to remove insect stingers and ticks

? Thermometer -for checking temperature

? Petroleum jelly -apply to thermometer before inserting

? Nonstick dressings and bandages - for bandaging cuts and to keep dressings in place

? Surgical gloves -use when treating wounds

? Heavy-duty gloves -to protect yourself when restraining your cat

? Towel -to restrain your cat

These first-aid items can be bought from a local drugstore, your vet or a pet store. Having a home first-aid kit will enable you to treat minor injuries and keeps you prepared for an emergency. Knowing your cats personality and habits will help you detect any changes in demeanor and behavior, which may be signs that he or she is feeling sick.

If your cats eating habits change this can also suggest that it is sick and a veterinarian checkup is recommended. Caring for your cat or kitten is easier when you are prepared.

Guide to Cats. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your cat, learn about caring for a cat.

Paul Hegarty is the owner of learningfromdvds.com. Price compare Educational DVDs, read reviews, download free E-books. Read this month's e-book on "How To Spot A fraudulent Email". Grab your free copy today.

Article Source:http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Hegarty

Cat - Caring For A Cat Or Kitten

Caring for a cat or kitten begins with a knowledge of basic first aid. This will be very useful especially in emergency situations. If you have a nearby vet clinic that offers first aid training you are doing both yourself and your cat a service by enrolling.

Knowing what to do in an emergency situation will keep you calm so that you can help your cat in an efficient and effective manner. You may be able to limit your cats injuries or help save its life.

Below is a list of first-aid items to help care for your cat when those emergencies may arise.:

? Antiseptic lotion - for cleaning wounds

? Antiseptic wound powder - to treat wounds and promote healing

? Cotton balls - to clean wounds and bathe eyes

? Cotton swabs -to clean wounds and apply ointments

? Pair of scissors with blunt tips and curved blades - to cut dressings to size and for clipping fur around wounds

? Antihistamine -to ease insect bites and stings

? Blunt-tipped tweezers -to remove insect stingers and ticks

? Thermometer -for checking temperature

? Petroleum jelly -apply to thermometer before inserting

? Nonstick dressings and bandages - for bandaging cuts and to keep dressings in place

? Surgical gloves -use when treating wounds

? Heavy-duty gloves -to protect yourself when restraining your cat

? Towel -to restrain your cat

These first-aid items can be bought from a local drugstore, your vet or a pet store. Having a home first-aid kit will enable you to treat minor injuries and keeps you prepared for an emergency. Knowing your cats personality and habits will help you detect any changes in demeanor and behavior, which may be signs that he or she is feeling sick.

If your cats eating habits change this can also suggest that it is sick and a veterinarian checkup is recommended. Caring for your cat or kitten is easier when you are prepared.